A wave of pride and opportunity is sweeping across India’s artisan footwear industry following the recent Prada ‘sandal scandal’. At the heart of the controversy are Kolhapuri sandals, the handcrafted leather footwear with centuries-old heritage, which gained unexpected global attention after the Italian fashion house showcased a strikingly similar design during Milan Fashion Week without initially crediting its Indian roots.
The backlash was swift. Indian artisans and supporters flooded social media with criticism, memes, and calls for recognition. An open letter by Rahul Parasu Kamble, founder of e-commerce platform Shopkop, went viral, emphasizing the cultural and historical significance of Kolhapuris. Kamble’s sandals, sourced from local artisans, saw sales spike to ₹50,000 ($584) in just three days five times the usual.
Faced with mounting pressure, Prada issued a statement acknowledging the design’s Indian inspiration and expressed intent to collaborate with local manufacturers if it proceeds to commercialize the sandals. The company also pledged to meet with artisans, sparking hopes for fair recognition and potential partnerships.
For the 7,000-odd artisans who still produce Kolhapuris many struggling to sustain the dying craft the controversy has offered a much-needed revival. Craftsmen like 50-year-old Ashok Doiphode, who spends nine hours daily hand-stitching sandals that sell for as little as ₹400 ($5), now hope global interest will lead to better prices and demand.
Indian brands and sellers are seizing the moment. Mumbai-based Ira Soles has launched new ad campaigns highlighting the international buzz, while Niira, an e-commerce site, is offering major discounts on its Kolhapuri lines. Sales of their $18 sandals have tripled.
Industry voices are also rallying. Lalit Gandhi of Maharashtra’s main industry lobby is in talks with Prada to create a co-branded, limited-edition sandal line an initiative that could open doors to the $1 billion export market projected by India’s government in 2021.
From fashion runways to artisan workshops, the Kolhapuri sandal is making a bold comeback, proudly walking the line between heritage and high fashion.
